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Seed starting dates

Every seed starting chart hangs off one date, your average last spring frost. This guide covers what that date really means, how to count back from it for each crop, how warm the soil has to be before you sow outside, and how to time a second crop for fall. The weeks are the same ones the Seed Starting Calculator uses.

Updated October 2026 9 min read By Connor Schmitz

Frost dates

Your last frost date comes from about 30 years of weather records at a station near you. NOAA works out how often the last spring freeze came on or after each day of the year. The date most charts print is the 50% date: in half of those years the last freeze had already come, and in the other half it came later.

So the average last frost date is a coin toss, not a safe day. NC State Extension shows how wide the spread runs. At the Raleigh station, there is a 90% chance of a 36 °F frost on or after March 28, a 50% chance on or after April 12, and still a 10% chance on or after April 26. The safer date is two weeks past the average one.

90% chance Mar 28 Frost after this date in 9 years out of 10. Too early for anything tender.
50% chance Apr 12 The "average last frost." A coin toss.
10% chance Apr 26 Frost after this date in 1 year out of 10. Much safer for tender crops.

Raleigh, North Carolina, 36 °F frost, from NC State Extension.

The temperature matters as much as the odds. NOAA lists dates for several thresholds. NC State calls 32 °F a freeze and 28 °F a hard freeze, and uses 36 °F for frost, since frost depends on humidity as well as temperature and the risk climbs once the air drops below 36. Here is the station at Montana State University in Bozeman, all at the 50% level:

28 °F, hard freeze May 8 Below what semi-hardy crops like lettuce and chard stand, about 30 to 32 °F. Hardy crops like cabbage and kale come through.
32 °F, freeze May 26 The date most charts and the calculator use. Frost-tender crops like tomatoes, peppers, beans and squash do not survive it.
36 °F, frost Jun 14 Light frost is still possible until about here, most often on a clear night.

Bozeman, Montana (ZIP 59715), last spring date in half of years, NOAA 1991 to 2020 normals.

Five weeks lie between the hard freeze and the last light frost in Bozeman. That is why a mountain gardener with a "May 26 frost date" still covers the tomatoes in June.

Quick check

Your chart says the average last frost is May 26. How often does a freeze come after that date?

Answer: One year in two. The average date is the 50% date. For frost-tender crops, plan on a week or two past it and watch the forecast.

Counting back

A seed packet says something like "start indoors 6 to 8 weeks before transplanting." The count runs back from the day the seedling goes outside, and that day is not the frost date for most crops. Cabbage can go out a month before the last frost. Peppers go out two weeks after it. UNH Extension gives both numbers for each crop:

CropIndoorsSet out
Onion, leek8 to 104 before
Cabbage, kale4 to 64 before
Lettuce4 to 53 to 4 before
Broccoli4 to 62 to 4 before
Tomato6 to 81 to 2 after
Pepper, eggplant8 to 102 to 3 after
Basil6 to 82 after
Squash, cucumber, melon3 to 41 to 2 after

Before the frost date Just after Two weeks or more after

Weeks from seed to transplant, and weeks before or after the last frost to set out. UNH Extension.

So there are two steps. Find the set-out date from the frost date, then count back the seedling weeks from there. For a tomato in Bozeman:

Last frost May 26 The 50% date for 32 °F.
Set out Jun 2 One week after the frost date.
Sow indoors Apr 14 Seven weeks before setting out.
Seed starting timeline for Bozeman, Montana, March to June. Onions start March 3 and go out April 28. Peppers start March 31 and go out June 9. Lettuce starts April 7 and goes out May 5. Tomatoes start April 14 and go out June 2. Broccoli starts April 14 and goes out May 12. The last frost date, May 26, falls between them. Onion Pepper Lettuce Tomato Broccoli Last frost, May 26 Mar 1Apr 1May 1Jun 1Jul 1

Indoors under lights Hardening off Set out

Bozeman, from the Seed Starting Calculator. Onions and broccoli go out before the frost date, tomatoes and peppers after it. Peppers are sown two weeks before tomatoes and go out a week after them.
Most common mistake

Counting the packet's weeks back from the frost date for every crop. Peppers get sown two weeks early and spend that time crowding their pots, and cabbage gets sown a month late. Find the set-out date first, then count back.

Try it

Set your frost date and pick a crop

Sow indoorsApr 14
Set outJun 2
Under lights7 weeks

Goes out 1 week after the frost date. Frost-tender, so watch the forecast for two weeks after that.

Same weeks as the Seed Starting Calculator. The calculator also looks up your frost dates from your ZIP code.

Quick check

Your last frost is May 10. Tomatoes go out a week after it and spend 7 weeks as seedlings. When do you sow?

Answer: March 29. The set-out date is May 17, and 7 weeks before that is March 29. March 22 counts back from the frost date, which gives a seedling a week too long in its pot.

Seed Starting Calculator Your frost dates from your ZIP code, then sow, set-out and harvest dates for more than 70 vegetables, herbs and flowers.
Open the calculator

Soil temperature

Seeds sown straight into the garden go by soil temperature, not the calendar. Cold soil slows germination and leaves seeds sitting where they can rot. Colorado State Extension gives the lowest soil temperature each crop will sprout in, and the temperature it sprouts best in. Measure at 8 a.m., 4 inches deep (6 inches for beans), with a soil thermometer.

CropLowestBest
Lettuce35 °F70 °F
Peas, spinach40 °F70 °F
Carrots40 °F80 °F
Sweet corn, tomatoes50 °F80 °F
Snap beans55 °F80 °F
Peppers60 °F80 °F
Cucumbers, squash, melons60 °F90 °F

Minimum and optimum soil temperatures for germination, Colorado State Extension.

Colorado State also sorts crops by frost tolerance, which sets how early they can go in. Hardy crops like lettuce, peas and spinach can go in 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost. Semi-hardy crops like beets, carrots, potatoes and chard go in 0 to 2 weeks before. Tender crops like beans, corn, cucumbers and summer squash are sown around the frost date. Very tender crops like tomatoes, peppers, melons and winter squash go in 2 or more weeks after it.

Seedlings

University of Minnesota Extension gives the basics for seedlings indoors. Keep the air above 60 °F, and remember the mix in the tray can run 5 °F cooler than the room. Give them 12 to 16 hours of light a day, with grow lights no more than 4 inches above the tops and 2 inches if you can. Lack of light is the main reason seedlings come out tall and thin. Seedlings on a windowsill tend to stretch.

Give each seedling its own cell or pot. Roots that grow into each other tear when the plants are pulled apart. Squash and cucumbers do not like their roots disturbed, so start them in paper or fiber pots that go into the ground with the plant.

Hardening off

Two weeks before setting out, put seedlings outside for a few hours on a warm afternoon, in the shade and out of the wind. Bring them in before it cools off at night. Leave them out a little longer each day, with a little more direct sun. By the end of two weeks, unless a freeze is forecast, they can stay out. Seedlings that skip this can have their leaves scorched by sun or wind, and may wilt and die.

Short seasons

Days to maturity on a packet count from the day the crop goes in the ground. For tomatoes and peppers that is the transplant day, so Colorado State's 65 days for tomatoes comes on top of the 7 weeks indoors. For crops sown in place it counts from sowing.

The packet figure also assumes an ordinary summer. Plants grow with warmth more than with the calendar, so in a cool place the same variety takes longer. The calculator adjusts for local heat with a Bizon estimate. For Bozeman it puts a 65-day tomato at about 83 days from transplant, ripening around late August.

Some crops do not make it at all. A 115-day pumpkin like Howden, sown in Bozeman on June 9, does not get enough heat before the September 21 frost. There are two fixes. Choose a variety with fewer days, or start the pumpkin indoors 3 to 4 weeks ahead, as UNH suggests for squash and pumpkins, to put those weeks back.

Fall crops

A fall crop is timed back from the first fall frost. University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension adds up five things:

Days to harvest From the packet From sowing or setting out.
Seedling time If transplanted The weeks from seed to a plant ready to set out.
Harvest period How long you pick The calculator uses 21 days, a Bizon estimate.
Fall factor 14 days For the slower growth in cooler weather and shorter days.
Frost-tender factor 14 days Only for crops like beans, cucumbers, corn, squash and tomatoes, which need to mature two weeks before frost.

Leaf lettuce in Bozeman works out like this: 60 days to harvest, plus 21 days of picking, plus the 14-day fall factor, is 95 days. Lettuce tolerates light frost, so no frost-tender factor. Counting 95 days back from September 21 lands on June 18. Hardy crops like kale, cabbage and carrots keep growing through light frosts, so they suit a fall planting best.

Summary

  • The average last frost date is the 50% date. Frost still comes after it one year in two.
  • Find the set-out date for each crop first, then count the seedling weeks back from there.
  • Sow outside by soil temperature: 40 °F for peas, 60 °F for squash and cucumbers.
  • Seedlings need 12 to 16 hours of light, close to the lamp, and two weeks of hardening off.
  • In a short, cool season, pick varieties with fewer days to maturity.

Sources

University extension services and NOAA, the same ones the Seed Starting Calculator uses.